“They said the key is under a rock… huh…” My companions on a filming trip for ESPN Adventure, Damian and Willie Benegas, wander a scrub-forest-lined fence in drizzling almost-snow, flipping stones and boulders in search of the necessary gate key. Our plans to drive to a remote estancia southeast of Bariloche and ski the valleys at the source of the Foyel River may be thwarted if we can’t find the hiding place. There’s no cell service to phone the owner of the outpost where we will be starting out trip, but we see a paysano living across the road and call over to check if we’re in the right place. Nope. Up the road further. Ten minutes later, we’ve located the correct gate and key. The truck spins through deep clay, snaking up a steep road toward snow line.